Four Interesting Seder Selections

By Dr. Kenneth Friedman

A bevy of new and interesting wines awaits your Pesach 5785/2025 table. With the season of kosher wine trade shows now behind us, I was able to get a taste of many of the new releases from around the world, timed perfectly for pre-Pesach buying. This year’s various trade shows presented an unending array of wines from all corners of the room and from importers and distributors large and small. The incredible growth of the kosher wine world continues into uncharted territory, with new varieties, wines from unrepresented regions, and curious blends.

Pesach is truly a wine lover’s delight, as the spotlight of the beverage world shines brightly upon wine, with eight days off from beers and many spirits made from grains. Pesach is a perfect time to step out of the comfort zone of cabernets and chardonnays and into the wild world of lesser-known wines. Explore. Indulge. Revel in your freedom.

Dalton, Asufa, Grounded, Zuriman, 2023

Looking for an oddity? How about the only Zuriman made in the world? In 2011, Dr. Shivi Drori, winemaker at Gva’ot and head of wine research at Ariel University, led a groundbreaking study in which his team collected about 600 wild vine samples from across Israel with the goal to find indigenous grapes. Genetic analysis revealed over 100 unique varietals, with Israeli names such as Be’er, Moshe, Saida and Moshe. One discovered varietal, Zuriman, named for the ruins in the Golan Heights where it was discovered, is a black grape variety that winemaker Guy Eshel aged for eight months in clay amphorae to allow the grape’s fruit to shine. In the glass, dark ruby and clear, with a nose of black raspberry, cherry, oregano and earth. Medium bodied and easy drinking, with nice spice, red fruit and nice acidity. This wine should be served slightly chilled, 58-60 F. ($32.99)

Feldstein, Dabouki, Dry White, 2023

Speaking of Israeli native grapes, I was curious to taste this new-to-America wine from legendary Israeli winemaker Avi Feldstein. Feldstein founded his eponymous label in 2014 but is more well-known in the United States as the creator of Segal’s Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon from his time as a winemaker at Barkan-Segal. Dabouki has long been grown in Israel (and Lebanon) from well before pre-State times, and was grown as a table grape and distilled into brandy and arak. Dabouki was prized for its sweetness, and in fact, the name dabouki means “sticky sweet.” Feldstein has been producing a varietal dabouki since 2014 but just recently his wines have begun being imported to the United States. The dabouki is fermented in stainless steel and left on its lees for complexity and depth. It is one of the most interesting wines I tasted at this year’s trade shows. The 2023 has 5% each of marawi and jandali, grapes also native to the area, and in fact, the same vineyard. The wine has a wonderful bouquet of citrus, apricot, lime zest, nuttiness and minerality, with a body that shows great acidity, nice complexity, pith, and a rich mouthfeel. ($46.99)

Clos Triguedina, Probus, Cahors, 2022

The kosher world lacks genuinely great malbec. The Cahors appellation in southwest France is the birthplace of malbec. Its limestone soil (allowing for retained acidity), warm daytime temperatures (improving ripening), and cool Atlantic breezes are the perfect recipe for great malbec. Cahors Malbec is known for structured tannins, dark, concentrated fruit, and elegance. Three new Clos Triguedina Malbecs were shown this year and are now for sale. They are the Malbec du Clos ($20.99), the Cahors ($43.99) and the Probus ($94.99), each worthwhile to invest in and taste. But the Probus is something special. Dark and brooding in the glass, a nose of sweet black and blue fruit, and a floral edge. On the palate, excellent acidity, firm tannins, dense in texture, and structured. Beautiful wine. This wine would do best to cellar. Drink from 2030-2040.

Domaine du Haut-Montlong, Les Hauts des Noilettes, Vieilles Vignes, Monbazillac, 2020

Monbazillac is an AOC for sweet white wine in the Dordogne, southwest France. To be named Monbazillac, the grapes need to be affected by Botrytis cinerea, or “noble rot,” which produces highly concentrated sweet wines that show depth, screaming acidity and complex flavors. Haut Montlong is a third-generation family estate dating to 1925. The Hauts des Noilettes, 2020 is a blend of sémillon, sauvignon blanc and muscadelle. The opulent nose shows stone fruit, honey, citrus, dried fruit and candied nectarine. The palate is rich and luxurious, nectarlike. Clean with a long finish. Natural high acidity adds great balance to temper the rich sweetness. Honey, white flowers, hazelnut, stone fruit. Lovely wine. Serve it chilled but not overly so, about 50 F, allowing it to warm in your hands. Drink now to 2039. A tip: You can comfortably open this wine, cork it, and keep in your fridge, drinking over a month or two, if not far longer. No need to finish in one sitting. ($44.99)